Savile Row opens its doors to women

For more than two hundred years, Savile Row, the quintessential birthplace of bespoke - an English term that originated on the street itself and translates as “tailor-made” - has been a symbol of tradition, craftsmanship and British heritage. Its wide sartorial offering only perpetuates the myth of the English gentleman, always dressed to the nines. However, in the last decade, this iconic London street has been shaken by a new trend of innovation and inclusion that, among other things, responds to the needs of gentlewomen (women who like to dress well). “When I started working on Savile Row it felt like the old guard, the tailors who had been in business for hundreds of years, were in charge and were possibly suspicious of the tailors who had just started. But as time has passed, the younger houses have attracted a new audience that is now considering buying there because it seems contemporary instead of old-fashioned,” says Slevin, recalling the beginnings of his career as a tailor.

A career that begins at Cad & The Dandy , a men's tailoring house founded in 2013, where he worked as an apprentice to the head cutter or, in Spanish, chief pattern maker. And, as they say, before you run, you have to learn to walk, so a few years before Banshee became the mecca of women's tailoring on Savile Row, Ruby Slevin had to train in the art of cutting and clothing. It was then that she realized the existing void: “There was nothing there for women,” says the tailor. She adds: “Some of the men's tailoring houses could make women's clothing, but it wasn't a welcoming place for them at the time. So I thought they should have the same opportunity as men because it really is a wonderful experience.” In this way, Banshee of Savile Row was born, a brand aimed at original women who challenge conventions; and, above all, they do not want to settle for the crumbs offered by men's tailoring houses.

Wherever you go, do what you see. Or not?

That tailoring is an industry traditionally dominated by men is no secret and, to make matters worse, men tend to be those who resist change... However, contrary to what one might think, the designer highlights the great support he received from the community of the popularly known as the 'golden mile of tailoring'. “I had a good working relationship with my colleagues and they wanted me to do well, plus they thought it was a good idea. At the end of the day, the tailors want Savile Row to be seen as a welcoming and modern place,” explains Slevin.

However, hers was not a bed of roses either since she had to face certain difficulties when wanting to change her modus operandi, which was now based on a feminine vision. An example of this were the doubts that the tailor raised among her pattern makers and manufacturers when creating new silhouettes. “A woman's body needs a different approach than a man's. Without going any further, it curves differently,” points out the designer who, beyond technical issues, raised certain concerns in other aspects. Regarding the construction, Slevin opted for the use of fabrics such as silk and satin that he arranged inside the jacket, but not only in the lining (as usual), but also inside the sleeves. Quite a waste in the eyes of his colleagues. “I knew they were right, but women have softer skin and we need appropriate fabrics that make us feel good,” she states bluntly.

Why choose Banshee of Savile Row

It is precisely this attention to detail and good workmanship, in addition to the opening towards a new market, that makes Banshee a recognized and pioneering firm in its sector. However, the real difference lies in the empathy and interest that Ruby Slevin shows for her clients, which she confesses serves as a source of inspiration for her designs (in addition to Ireland, her homeland). . “They are wonderful women, busy with their busy lives, who may have important jobs, families, friends… They are involved in many different things, but they live their day to day lives,” explains the tailor. “Creating clothes that enhance their lives and that they want to wear is my greatest achievement,” she concludes.

In this sense, Slevin was always clear and states: “I became a tailor because I consider it to be the only way to make clothes.” And this is precisely how she improves the lives of her clients, to whom she gives the opportunity to have something that fits perfectly, leaving aside that 'dramatic moment' in the fitting room that us fast fashion regulars know so well (and suffer from). . “It is something very empowering for women,” highlights the designer. And, although many call it frivolous, of course it is. Just look back to the 1970s and 1980s and remember the popular styles of power dressing and power suits that reinterpreted women's tailoring and turned the suit into the cornerstone of a wardrobe aimed at success.

The magic of bespoke

To understand the weight that all these concepts really have, we would have to stop to analyze the bespoke process, which can last six to eight weeks: from the initial consultation, through taking measurements and making the pattern, to the adjustment. and the final tailoring... Each and every one of the pieces that form part of this well-oiled watch that is custom tailoring must fit perfectly, the first of which is decisive in guaranteeing a good final result. “Knowing the lifestyle and needs of each client is what allows me to create something beautiful, but at the same time functional. I do not seek to impose my ego or my ideas. What I want is to create a versatile garment that can be used both to go to work and to an evening event. For me, that is a good job,” explains the tailor.

Therefore, custom tailoring goes beyond the body. It not only suits your figure, but also who you are. “It is a form of magic and creation. A kind of alchemy in which what you have created from a small sample of fabrics becomes a finished garment that makes you feel powerful,” comments the designer in this regard. A magic that, in addition to being present throughout the creative process, can be seen in the name of the brand itself. In Irish folklore, banshees are seen as female spirits who announce the death of a close relative with their cries and screams. However, despite the negative connotations that this name could suggest, Slevin clarifies that in the Irish language it literally translates as 'fairy woman'. And she explains: “It represents the triple goddess, that is, all the forms of women, which are: the maiden, the mother and the matriarch. The latter is also described as the harpy, an old woman who laments and symbolizes death. I think describing an older woman as a shrew is part of the patriarchy and doesn't seem right to me. “All forms of women throughout life are beautiful and this is what I want to capture with my idea of ​​the Banshee woman.”

Tailoring and fashion: two sides of the same coin?

A woman who, according to Slevin, “moves between different worlds.” With these words, the founder of Banshee also expresses her firm intention to unite custom tailoring with contemporary fashion. Something that she made clear with her participation in London Fashion Week up to three times. But can something that has been conceived under the premise of timelessness also be fashionable? The answer is yes. “It's about having less clothing, but of high quality, without sacrificing cut, fabric or construction. For me, that's fashion and, of course, tailoring; and the way you interpret it through your personal style is the way to unite both realities,” declares the tailor.

Although this philosophy is nothing new - in fact, our mothers already warned us - it is quite a declaration of intent at a time when trends are happening at full speed and fashioncore seems to rule the scene. “With regard to fast fashion it is fascinating and very revealing to see how the attitude towards shopping is changing. More and more young people are aware that they do not want to support fast fashion. So, even if they don't have a budget for Savile Row yet, they prefer to buy second-hand or vintage clothes. And then, when they get their first good job, they will save the money,” says Slevin about the future of custom tailoring in the face of the dictatorship of ready-to-wear.

A future that contemplates new silhouettes such as sporty tailoring, so popular among celebrities like Hailey Bieber. “In modern women's tailoring anything goes. No rules. How you want to interpret and wear your tailored clothing is entirely up to you, and this is where personal style comes into play. Breaking the rules of what is expected is exciting and the ultimate way to express yourself,” says the designer.

Freedom and individualism are, therefore, presented as the keys to the new feminine sartorial panorama that is thus differentiated from the corseted masculine tailoring. “I think this has evolved a lot in recent years, thanks to personalities like Timothée Chalamet or Harry Styles,” says Slevin. However, he adds: “But the average man still feels the limits of norms and what is appropriate for certain occasions.” Without going any further, at this year's MET Gala we were able to see a few brave people enjoying the absence of guidelines when it comes to outfits (see Bad Bunny dressed in Maison Margiela). But, fortunately or unfortunately, real life is not the MET Gala and this waste of creativity is not at all common among mortals. In any case, with or without extravagance, “clothes make the man,” said Mark Twain; although, in this case, it is the woman who makes the costume, which she interprets with her personal style like a true banshee.

Note: this article has been translated from the original Spanish