TEMPUS

Another brand that has made a significant impact considering their short history, Banshee of Savile Row launched in 2019 with the intention of bringing sartorial Savile Row know-how to the powerful female form. The brainchild of Ruby Slevin and Rocco Tullio, Banshee’s London Fashion Week debut — the first women’s tailoring house to showcase — was an absolute knockout. The next time you’re on the Row, you’ll certainly end up recognising a Banshee suit through their use of colour, cloths and exquisite silhouettes. From newcomers to stalwarts, the big players were out in full force once more, with RIXO and Roksanda getting the headlines as usual with their innovative and on-the-pulse offerings…

Even non-tailoring menswear had a brief stint in the sun through London Collections: Men, until the rebrand to ‘London Fashion Week with a little menswear here and there’ resulted in some of the biggest players to pull out. I’ve always found it quite bizarre that in the majority of these shows now, nothing seen could (or would) actually be worn by people. In the hope of carving out their own sense of individuality and edge, they end up almost alienating themselves from the real world, which — to me anyway — sort of defeats the purpose. What I’d love to see more of are the brands like Ahluwalia and Labrum, Ozwald Boateng and Banshee, that have pushed for visibility, equality and for their seat at the table. Brands that have broken glass ceiling after glass ceiling themselves because no one else would do it for them. They are visionaries that represent us, and will hopefully pave the way for future designers with something important to share.

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